But can it actually taste of a place? This is the question being probed by the young Grenadian distillery Renegade. The deeper mahogany Appleton Estate 21yo (£150, ) sees that citrus character mature into thick-cut marmalade the finish reveals sweet coffee, soft leather, spices and almond cake.Ĭane fields at Grenada’s Renegade distiller The indulgent Appleton Estate 15yo Black River Cask (£66.94, ) wraps the distillery’s signature orange-zest notes in silky layers of tiramisu, chocolate and prune. Jamaica’s oldest rum producer, Appleton Estate, has some of the most extensive rum archives in the Caribbean – archives it has been plundering to create some delicious sipping spirits. The latest release, Foursquare Touchstone (£90), is a 14-year-old blend of rums aged in American oak and finished cognac casks a harmonious marriage of classic Bajan spiciness and French refinement.Īppleton Estate 15yo Black River Cask, £66.94, © Campari Group/Appleton Estate/Scarfes Bar, London Undiluted, single cask, non-chill-filtered, unsweetened and sometimes vintage, they are rum at its most cerebral. The pinnacle of its range is the Exceptional Cask Selection, a collection of limited-edition aged rums that speak a language more like whisky.
Foursquare Rum in Barbados has been a trailblazer, campaigning for tighter regulations and appellation systems. Much of the drive upmarket has come from its heartland, the Caribbean, where distillers are doing more to highlight rum-making technique and regional variation. These rums speak a language that is more like whisky
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